Hi all
Choosing a sewing thread for your next project can be daunting. Especially if you are purchasing your thread online and can't see or feel the quality, or more importantly, the weight.
You see, your thread weight needs to match the fabric that you want to sew. A heavy thread on a delicate material like silk is going to drag your project down and potentially damage the fabric. While a lightweight thread used to sew denim is a recipe for disaster. The thread won't take the punishment and will break. Leaving your seams gaping and your sewing project in tatters.
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| Different Thread Types - Image by Olwen White |
How Do You Choose Threads?
There are so many different brands, styles of reel, and weights to choose from, it can be difficult to tell which one you need. So much so that it could leave you feeling bewildered and confused.
The first thing to remember when choosing thread is the most important reason you're looking for the thread in the first place. Your project.
If you keep your project in mind when you go thread shopping, it will make it easier for you to pick the right one. Think about the finished item and ask yourself four questions:
1. What will the sewing project be used for?
2. How often will it be washed?
3. Will you be using a heavy fabric or a lightweight material?
4. Is the fabric made from a natural fiber or a synthetic one?
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| Image By Mystic Art Design From Pixabay |
Let's try a few examples of different sewing projects to see how these four questions can help you choose the right thread weight.
Example 1: Repurposing an Old Pair of Jeans into a Denim Bag.
OK, so the first thing you need to identify is the material. You're going to be using denim. One of the heaviest cottons you can get. Even with some synthetic lycra content, it's still has a fairly chunky weave. Denim needs a mid to heavy weight thread.
An All Purpose thread or a specific Jeans thread. Aim for a polyester based thread if your denim has a high stretch content.
Example 2: Making a Silk Scarf
For a project using a luxury textile like silk, you'll need to steer clear of the thread you used for your denim bag. Silk needs a gentle touch, so you'll need to choose a lighter weight of thread.
A silk thread would be ideal for this type of project. Not only does it match the fabric, but it's both strong and delicate and will enhance your project rather than swamp it.
Example 3: Making Your Own Swimwear
Swimwear needs a synthetic fabric like nylon or polyester. It needs a lot of stretch and has to be waterproof. You really don't want to use a fabric that sucks water up like a sponge.
Because of this, you'll need to choose a thread that is both waterproof and stretchy enough to move with the fabric. Natural fiber threads like cotton or linen are not a good choice for this type of project. They'll absorb the water. But worse, they'll break as soon as you put the seams under too much pressure.
What you need is a synthetic thread that is both robust and flexible. Nylon and polyester threads are the perfect match for swimwear.
What to Look For at the Thread Store
So far we've looked at a general overview of how to choose the right thread weight for your sewing project. But knowing the theory is only half the story. You also need to know what the thread looks like.
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| Typical Thread Display at a Fabric Store |
The picture above is from the thread display at my local fabric store. It is categorized into different sewing activities. When you go shopping for thread, allow yourself to be guided by those categories. They will help you decide which thread weight, or rather thread type you should choose.
Here are the headings you'll probably see as part of your local store's fabric display:
All Purpose
This is the one that will probably take up most of the space in the thread section of your local fabric store. All Purpose, or Sew All thread, is the most popular and well-used thread you can get.
It's a mid weight thread that you can use for any mid or heavy weight project. Suitable for both hand and machine sewing, it's usually polyester or a polyester blend. This thread can cope with clothing seams, quilting, edge stitching, and even machine embroidery.
Quilting
Quilting thread is usually 100% cotton. The cotton used tends to be high quality and it comes it two different types. Machine quilting thread and hand quilting thread. The main difference between the two is hand quilting thread has a special coating to help it glide through the fabric easier.
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| Image by Eszter Miller From Pixabay |
Thread specifically designed for quilting comes in three weights. Lightweight, mid, and heavy. Each weight gives a different effect to the finished quilt top. A heavyweight or thicker thread gives the design and extra pop while a lighter choice will be more subtle.
Embroidery
This thread can be either polyester or rayon. Both options give a lightweight thread suitable for embellishments or decorative stitches. Again, you can get two types. One for hand embroidery and one for machine embroidery.
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| Image by Kateryna From Pixabay |
Embroidery thread isn't strong enough for the construction of seams. But it can be used for delicate hems or other areas that don't need to be put under pressure or strain. Most embroidery thread has a luxurious sheen designed to make your embroidery stand out and look amazing.
Overlocker/Serger
The thread used with overlockers or sergers is very similar in weight to all purpose thread. There are a couple of differences though. This thread comes on cones rather than spools. Cones can hold more thread. As overlockers use a lot of thread, the larger cones allow more sewing and less spool changing!
Another difference is the heat-resistant coating. Overlockers and sergers generate more friction as they work so the thread has a special finish to counteract that. This thread also tends to be a little thinner so that overlocked seams are flatter and bulk-free.
Top Stitch
More robust than embroidery thread, top stitch thread is used to add definition and stability to seams and edges. Think decorative detailing on shirt collars, for instance. Not only does the thread hold the collar edges in place, but it also adds a decorative finish. The orange detailing on denim jeans is made using top stitch thread.
Strong and slightly thicker than all purpose thread, this thread is used in areas where hiding structural stitching just isn't possible. Instead, it helps you make a feature out of it! The whole point of a top stitch thread is to make your projects pop.
Silk or Rayon
Silk and rayon are both strong but lightweight threads that can be used with delicate fabrics. Or for areas where you don't want the stitching to show. These threads are ideal for French seams or rolled hems on silk or chiffon fabrics.
Equally suitable for hand or machine sewing, you can use silk and rayon for embroidery, embellishments, and detail work.
To learn more about thread weights, check out my latest YouTube Video:
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