How to Choose the Right Sewing Machine Needle

All sewists know the most important part of a sewing machine is the needle. Without one, the machine is useless, unless you need to wind a bobbin.

Because the needle is an essential part of the machine, it needs to be in tiptop condition. Not only does the needle have to be changed regularly, preferably after every project, but you have to use the right needle for the job. Both to improve accuracy and the reliability of the machine.

With so much to remember about needles, how do you know you're using the right one for your project? Or even the right needle for the machine itself? This article will take you through everything you need to know about needles and which one you should use in your next project.

Image by wnk1029 From Pixabay

Things to consider

Like all things sewing related knowing about needles isn’t quite as simple as this needle is great for one job and another is best for something else. You have to know which needle fits in your particular machine and even what type of machine you use.

Machine or Hand-sewing?

While there are hundreds of types of needles, they all fall beneath two categories. Machine and hand needles. The distinction is an important one as they are not interchangeable.

Hand Sewing Needles

Hand needles are the ones with the eye at the opposite end to the tapered point. It's larger than the typical machine needle, designed for ease of threading and to ensure there's enough room for the thread, particularly in regard to embroidery.

Image by Moritz320 from Pixabay

Machine needles, and the ones we're focusing on in this article, have the point and the eye at the same end. The top of the needle is a much thicker shaft (shank) with one flat side, perfect for fitting into the casing of a sewing machine. 

Domestic or Industrial?

Obvious or not, both domestic and industrial sewing machines are very different. Designed for vastly different workloads, the needles the machines require change as well.

Image by dtenorioferreira1 from Pixabay

Industrial machines, as the name suggests, are the workhorses of the sewing world. They'll chug away at project after project, all day, every day. Because of this, they need a hardier needle. One that can keep up with the sheer amount of strain on its minuscule shoulders.

Domestic Machine Image by Olly White Simply Stitchy

Domestic machines, on the other hand, have a much lighter load to take on. As a result, the needles don't need to withstand the same level of tension or friction as their industrial counterparts. 

Woven or Knitted?

Depending on the type of fabric you're using, the needle needs to be designed in a way to accurately handle them without causing unsightly damage or skipping stitches.

Woven fabrics, being more rigid than knits, are generally used for formal garments with a sturdier structure. Tailored suits are an example. Knitted fabric, with its natural stretch, tends to form looser and more relaxed clothing. The sweater you love to curl up in to relax on cold, winter days is probably a knit fabric.

Leather and vinyl, however, are a different ballgame altogether. 

Class, Size & Width

Irritatingly enough, all sewing machines are not created equal. Depending on the brand, or the age of the machine itself, the size of the needle varies.

Where one machine takes a class 15 another might take a completely different size. Most domestic sewing machines will take a class 15 needle, also known as 130/705H. Some don’t. Not only will the wrong size needle not fit in your machine, it can cause serious damage to both your project and the machine itself.

It's important to check your machine's manual to make sure you have the right class of needle.

Another way size plays a part is in the fineness of the needle or the width. Finer needles are great for lighter fabrics, like silk, but they'll break if used for hardier materials like leather. With the amount of pressure the needle is under as you work, a break can send metal splinters into your fingers and the machine itself. Ouch!

The rule of thumb with needle width, the smaller the number the finer the needle. The numbers you are looking for are written as 90/14 or 110/18. The larger 110/18 is a suitable size for leather. 90/14 is a good medium needle. For light fabrics, you need 70/10 or even an 80/12. Schmetz, one of the industry staples for sewing machine needles has a handy needle guide. It shows both type, size and the colors associated with both.

Needles

Now you know the basics of what to consider with needles, it's time to decide which needle will do the job you need. As a rule of thumb, change the needle whenever you start a new project, especially if you switch fabric types or between 8 – 10 hours of sewing time. A blunt needle, after all, is a useless one.

Here's a list of the various types of sewing machine needle and the projects they're best for:

Standard Needles

Universal Needle

If you're really unsure what needle your project needs, the universal needle is the jack-of-all-trades when it comes to non-specialty fabrics. If you're using woven or knit fabrics, the universal needle has your back.

These are the bog-standard needles that always come with the sewing machine when you purchase it. They come in packs with a variety of sizes to allow you to choose the best one for your fabric.

The one thing to remember though is, despite the name, one size does not fit all sewing machines! Since the 'universal' refers to the fabric rather than the machine, you still have to check your manual to make sure the size you buy is the correct one.

Usage:

• Jack-of-all-trades
• Used for both woven and knitted fabrics
• Tailored suits
• Casual attire
  

Jersey Needles

Also known as "ballpoint needles", Jersey needles have a rounded tip. Instead of piercing through fabric, they slip between the threads of knitted materials and avoid causing damage or skipping stitches.

Usage:

• Knitted fabrics
• Casual attire

Stretch Needles

Perfect for Lycra, spandex or other elastic fabrics, stretch needles are great for avoiding missed stitches. They're less rounded than ballpoint needles and, like Jersey needles, ease between the fibers of the material as you work.

Usage:

• Lycra, spandex or other stretch fabrics
• Sports clothing
• Swimwear

Microtex Needles

Sharper and thinner than Universal needles, microtex (or sharps) are used on finer fabrics. More often used in projects requiring microfiber, silk or synthetic leather, microtex needles can also be used with polyester and other fine materials. These needles are also great for quilting, piecing and applique.

Usage:

• Microfiber
• Polyester
• Topstitching or other decorative stitches

Leather

Designed with a large, triangular point, like a wedge, leather needles pierce through leather, vinyl and suede without tearing the material or breaking under the pressure. Since leather needles are intended for use with natural leathers, most synthetic materials require a microtex or sharp needle.

Usage:

• Leather, vinyl and suede
• Shoe repair
• Belts and other accessories

Jeans or Denim Needles

As the name suggests, these needles are designed for jeans or denim fabric. They have a strong point and shaft to enable them to pierce through tightly woven materials, even canvas.

For denim containing a certain amount of stretch, these needles can be partnered with a stretch needle. Use the jeans/denim needle for the topstitching and the stretch needle for the seams.

Usage:

• Tightly woven materials
• Jeans or denim

Self-Threading Needles

Although more fragile than the other needles available, self-threading needles have a tiny slot at the side of the eye to make threading easier. They're great for sewists who have trouble threading needles and are designed after the universal needle. While they work best with woven fabrics, they may snag on knits.

Usage:

• Designed for ease of threading
• Woven fabrics

Decoration

Topstitch Needles

Designed to pierce several layers of fabric, topstitch needles are incredibly sharp and feature a large eye to accommodate the thicker threads required for decorating garments. As they're used to highlight features in a project, topstitch needles allow you to achieve a very straight, even line of stitches.

Usage:

• Straight, even stitches
• Necklines
• Hems

Embroidery Needles

Used with rayon, polyester and other decorative threads, embroidery needles feature a large eye and groove to protect the thread from fraying as you work. Embroidery needles aren't as sharp as topstitch needles.

Usage:

• Designed for thicker threads
• Embroidered decorations
• Embellishments

Quilting Needles

Also known as a 'stippling' needle. Stronger than most other needles due to the thick layers of material involved in quilt-making, quilting needles are tapered and sharp. They're designed to cause the least amount of damage to the fabric as possible.

Usage:

• Multiple layers of fabric
• Intersecting seams

Metallic Needles

Due to the fragility of metallic threads, metallic needles have larger, Teflon coated eyes to lessen the amount of friction on the thread itself. This also allows you to use thicker thread for your embellishments. Designed after the universal needle, they work with both woven and knit fabrics.

Usage:

• Metallic threads (or other specialized threads)
• Woven and knit fabrics
• Embellishments

Specialized Needles

Hemstitch Needles

Also known as 'wing' needles due to the flanges on both sides of the shaft, hemstitch needles create decorative holes on your project by pushing the fabric fibers apart. They're often used for decorating hems and borders.

Usage:

• Woven fabrics
• Decorative hems

Twin & Triple Needles

Attached to a single shank and evenly spaced, twin and triple needles create several lines of stitches at once. Use them to add a unique flair to hemlines but make sure the throat plate of your sewing machine is wide enough to accommodate the extra size. You also need extra thread spools to use each needle. Twin needles come as universal needles or stretch. The numbers 4.0/80 indicate the gap between the needles and the width of the actual needles.

Usage:

• Topstitch
• Decorative stitching
• Pin tucking

FAQ

How do you decide which needle is right for your project?

Consider your chosen project and the fabric you're using. Are you hemming or adding decoration? Is it a stretch fabric or leather? Remember to consider the thickness of the fabric as well, using a fine needle with a thick fabric will lead to a broken or bent needle.

When in doubt, particularly with woven or knit fabrics, use a universal but it's always better to choose a needle designed specifically for its intended purpose.

If you're still unsure, check the back of the needle packet. The recommended usage is often written on the packaging.

You've chosen your needle but the machine's skipping stitches

There are several reasons why your sewing machine is skipping stitches. Relax, it happens to all of us! Here are a few troubleshooting tips to get you out of a pinch:

• Check your stitch length and needle tension.
• Have you definitely chosen the right needle for the project?
• Examine the needle. If it's blunt, bent or broken, change it.
• Try a larger size needle.
• If your sewing is going unexpectedly haywire, try experimenting with different needle types on a scrap piece of the fabric you're using. Sometimes, the best option doesn't always end up being the recommended one.
• Take your sewing machine to a technician. The timing of the machine can go off, or a broken needle can cause damage to the interior workings and cause the thread to catch.
• Why do the needles keep breaking?
• Try a larger needle, especially if the fabric you're using is a thick one. Finer needles are more fragile and can't cope with the pressure of working thicker fabrics.
• If the needles are still breaking, it might be a case of user error. Try not to force the fabric through the sewing machine you should only guide it. For very thick areas, like doubled-up seams, slow down or manually stitch the seam with the hand wheel.

Why is the stitched hole so big?

This is the opposite of the previous question. If the stitches your sewing result in large holes, try a smaller needle. Lighter fabrics require finer needles and the thicker shafts of the larger sizes will cause more damage to the material.

Why isn't my machine sewing properly?

If you've recently changed the needle and find your machine isn't working as it should, check to make sure the needle is properly fixed in place. Most machine needles have a rounded shank with one flat edge, the flat side should face the back of the machine.

In case the needle isn't at fault, consider other choices. There are plenty of things that can go wrong with machines and they range from damage caused by a broken needle to faulty timing or something simple like a tension issue.

Conclusion

It's important to remember not all needles are created equal and, since they're essential to our sewing hobbies, it's beneficial to keep stock of the various types of needles you need for your projects. While you don't have to buy all of the types available, it's good practice to pay attention to your favored patterns and keep the needles you need close by.

I hope this article helped you figure out which needle your project requires and, if I missed one, let me know in the comments.

Bye for now

Olly

 

This article contains Amazon associate links. I may earn a referral fee for any purchases made via these links. This does not cost you any extra, and there’s no obligation to use the links. Although, they do help support me and this blog.

The items showcased may be available from other suppliers if you prefer not to use the links.
 

For more sewing tips and adventures, follow me:

Twitter
Facebook
Instagram 

YouTube

Sources:

https://www.sewingmachinefun.com/sewing-machine-needle-chart/

https://www.singer.com/sewing-resources/choosing-the-right-machine-needles

https://www.marthastewart.com/1509578/guide-sewing-machine-needles-and-how-to-use-them

https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/needle-type-chart.php

https://weallsew.com/five-basic-sewing-needles-you-need-and-why/

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/06/sewing-machine-needles-an-overview