Time Travel With A Pattern Detective

Hi all,

Sometimes sewing patterns can be more than just a 2D representation of the latest fashions.

They can also be a time capsule. A treasure trove of information on styles and how clothing trends have changed over the years. From the voluptuous, almost decadent, post war dresses of the 1950s to the figure hugging, casual elegance of the 1960s. Patterns are a fascinating historical record of days gone by. 

With a little bit of detective work, they can also provide an insight into the kinds of alterations our sewing ancestors carried out.

Take this pattern, Simplicity 7253 from 1975. A “How To Sew Everybody Jacket” with raglan sleeves and a hat suitable for men, teens and women. 

Although, the hat only appears on the teens… maybe adults didn’t wear hats in the 70s.

According to the envelope, the size of this particular pattern is large.

The pattern is in reasonable condition. 

The instruction sheet is step by step with handy little tick boxes to show which ones you’ve done. There’s even a separate set of instructions on how to make patch pockets.

Now that's cool! I've never seen that in any modern patterns.

If I ever get round to stitching this one, I'll need to upgrade to 2020 fashion styles. Those ties at the base would be replaced by an elastic waistband or maybe some ribbing. Either option would look cool in a contrasting fabric. That collar's got to go! It could definitely benefit from loosing a couple of inches. 

One thing patterns and books from the 1970s make clear - clothes back then were all about being big and bold. From vibrant colours to oversized collars and kipper ties. Nothing about the 70s was subtle. Talk about making a statement!

Unfortunately, before I can stitch it, I’ll have to fix it. It’s cut. Quite extensively.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a pattern with so many cuts in it. A prime example for the need to trace patterns! Luckily, all the alterations on this pattern are straightforward slices. All I need is patience, some tissue paper and a bit of sticky tape. Even so, I'll only get a near enough result. It won't be perfect. Altered patterns are not easy to put back together.

So what alterations was the stitcher from the 70s attempting?

Looking at the sleeve, pattern piece D, (middle piece in the picture above), the cut across the width is at the alteration line for arm length. 

Usually there are two lines here. A bit like the ones on Pattern Piece C next to it. Normally, to shorten you’d just fold the pattern by the desired amount. To lengthen, you cut and add an extra piece of tissue paper.

From looking at the pattern’s picture and line drawings, the sleeves are already quite long and roomy. So I think the alterations were to make the sleeve shorter.

The slice down the middle of the sleeve suggests the width of the arm needed attention. I’m going out on a limb here to say it was probably too wide. 

Why? Well, going back to the line drawings, this pattern has baggy sleeves. 

All the jacket pieces are cut across the top, through the raglan sleeve section. Maybe to reduce the depth of the raglan to further shorten the sleeve length.

I’m thinking, the pattern was altered to make a bomber jacket style with shorter, closer fitting sleeves. 

This pattern pre-dates multi-sized patterns which, thanks to Butterick, became a thing in the 1980s. The stitcher probably couldn’t get a smaller size, or they needed the chest/bust or hip measurements only available in large. Hence, the necessary alterations to the sleeves. 

This assumption is backed up by the pattern envelope stating that patterns should be chosen by bust/chest measurements. See top right in the picture above.

One of the great advantages of today’s multi-sized patterns is the ability to grade up or down from one size to another. Making a lot of complex alterations a thing of the past. 

I’m not sure the stitcher of the 1970s ever got around to sewing this pattern. Although the front Piece F for the shorter View 2 has been chosen, the back Piece C hasn’t been altered to match. Neither has the collar. It’s as though they got so far and then put it to one side as life’s distractions got in the way.

Which is a shame. It would have been a really nice jacket.

Bye for now, 

Olly

Thanks for reading. For more sewing tips and pattern reviews follow me:

Facebook.com/olwenwhite/

instagram.com/olwenwhitewrites/

Twitter @OlwenWhite

Youtube