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How To Keep The Original Hem When Turning Up Jeans

Hi all,

You’ve found the perfect pair of jeans but as always, they are 3 miles too long. I’m going to show you how to fix them so they fit your leg length perfectly. 

Better still, I’ll show you how this technique will work with any pants or trousers with an original jean-like hem. Like these 511 trousers.



You will need:
Pair of jeans or trousers that need turning up
Sewing machine
Zipper foot
Thread to match your jeans/trousers
Tape measure or ruler
Safety pins or plastic clips
Iron and ironing board
Pressing cloth

Step 1
Stand up and try on your jeans. With the shoes you usually wear or the pair you intend to wear with them. This is important as the shoes you wear will make a difference to the size of the turn up you need.

Turn up the bottom of each leg so the wrong side of the hem is showing.


Then move it up or down until you are happy with how they sit on the tops of your shoes. Fiddle with them, turning them up a bit more or down, until they are the right length.

This bit is easier with a friend but it’s not impossible to do on your own. It just takes longer. Place a mirror in front of your feet and lower legs to help.

When you are happy with the length, use safety pins or plastic clips to hold the turn up in place.

Step 2
Sit down. Do the legs ride up too far? Are you still happy with the turn up amount? If not, repeat step 1. If you are happy move on to Step 3.

Step 3
Measure the turn up with your tape measure. Starting at the point where the hem edge meets the leg, measure to the edge of the turn up. 



Don’t include the actual hem in the measurement. My turn up measures 1.5 inches.

Step 4
Take the measurement and divide it in half. Up until this point, I’ve been using inches. Finding half of an inch and a half is way too taxing for my brain. Fractions are not one of my strong points. I’m swapping to centimeters (cm).

Conveniently, 1.5 inches equates to 4cm. Now that’s mathematics I can do! Half of 4 would be 2cm. 


Whatever your halved measurement is, adjust the turn up to match. 

In my case, I’ve refolded the turn up to 2cm around the leg. I’ve even re-adjusted my seam gauge to show the inches. Half of 1.5 inches is three-quarters! Who knew? Well, probably everyone who grew up using inches. 

As a child of the 70s I was taught metric in school whilst everyone outside of school used inches. To this day I use a mismatch of both. The 1970s was a decade for confusion. And not just in color choices!

 

Replace your safety pins or clips. Keep the seam on the leg and in the turn up level. 




Make sure you don’t clip both sides of your leg together! You need to be able to get the jeans on!

Step 5
Change the foot on your sewing machine to a zipper foot. 


Remove the accessory tray from the machine so you can use the free arm. 

 

Put the leg of your jeans over the free arm. With the needle as close to the edge of the hem as you can get, start to sew.



Sew around, making sure that you keep close to the edge of that original hem. Depending on the thickness of your seams, you may need to help your machine get through. Take your foot off the pedal and walk your machine over the seam bump by turning the hand wheel towards you. Do this until the seam has cleared the foot.

When you get back to the starting point. Stitch over your first few stitches. Secure the stitching by going backwards for no more than two stitches. This is called back tacking.

You should have a small fold of fabric to the right of your original hem.


Step 6
Turn the newly stitched hem the right way out. Press with an iron set to as high a setting as the fabric can take. 


If the fabric is black or navy, use a pressing cloth. Pressing or ironing dark fabrics on the right side makes them go shiny.

Step 7
On the inside of the leg you will still have that small fold of fabric. 

 

You can cut the excess fabric off if you don’t need to allow for getting taller at a later date. Stitch around the raw edges with a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. Make sure to keep the main part of the leg out of the way!

If you want to keep the extra fabric, secure it to the seams. This will stop it catching your feet as you put the jeans on. A useful option if you’re going to need to turn them back down in the future. 

Using a needle and thread, hand stitch the fold to the inside seam. Only the seam. Don't go through to the right side of the fabric. You just need a couple of stitches to tack the folded section in place. 


 Make a small knot in the thread and pull through from the seam to the folded section. Do this a couple of times.

To tie it off, pull the needle through the fabric. Leave a bit of a loop. Push the needle through the loop and pull. This will make a knot. Do this one more time and you're done. 

Step 8
Enjoy wearing your altered jeans that now fit you perfectly. 

 

Thanks for reading. For more sewing tips and tutorials like this one follow me:

 
Bye for now

Olly

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