Skip to main content

Toiles and Tribulations

Hi there,

I wanted to make sure that the fabric choice for this 1960 pattern would work. I decided to do a toile. Also known as a muslin or a mock up. 

Toile is a funny word. Way back when I was learning to sew, I used to think it was pronounced toil as in work. Because doing mock ups can add to the work load, turning sewing into a toil rather than a pleasure. But it’s actually pronounced Twal. It’s French and means linen.

Toile fabric is a bit pricey so another option is Muslin. A cheaper cotton ideal for making test garments. 

Muslin also gets used in cooking for steaming puddings or for straining ingredients. Only not at the same time obviously. 

That could get messy.

Traditionally, muslin or toile (twal) would have been the go to fabric for all sewing mock ups of cotton and linen garments. However, in today’s modern world of synthetic stretch materials, neither muslin nor toile behave the same way as man made fibers. 

It’s more common these days for toiles to be made out of a similar fabric to the one you want to make the garment from. If you want to use jersey for instance, you’d do a test piece with a cheaper jersey fabric.

With that in mind, and as I wanted to make this pattern in a knit fabric, I needed a cheap knit fabric for my toile. 


I found a remnant of a slightly stretchy knit at a local charity shop (thrift store). At just 1.99 it was a bargain and just right for a sewing mock up. There was just about enough to get all my pieces cut out. Apart from the sleeve bands. This mock up was just to check sizing, so I can live without the bands, for now.


Anyway, I was going at a fair rate of knots up until I got to the pocket placement. 

The pattern instructions for this section totally threw me. They asked me to attach the pocket to the right side. 


I checked the diagram in the instructions. Judging by the location of the armhole, the pocket was on the left side. So I checked the picture on the packet. Again, the pocket was clearly on the left. 



So why do the instructions say put it on the right? 

In fact, this threw me for three days.

Three days.

Until it finally clicked.

I was like, DOH! A true light bulb moment. The instructions didn’t mean right as in left and right. It meant right.

As in right and wrong.

The pocket needed to be placed on the right side of the fabric!

My brain was so busy toiling on the problem, it missed the obvious.

Most sewing patterns, vintage or otherwise let you know what side of the fabric you should be working on by using shading. The right side of the fabric is shaded. The wrong side is blank.



I would have toiled less if I had read the pattern – both the text and the diagrams!

It just goes to show, no matter how long you have been sewing for, it’s the simple things that trip you up. 

Every time.

Bye for now

Olly

Facebook.com/olwenwhite/
instagram.com/olwenwhitewrites/
Twitter @OlwenWhite




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Crocheting My Way Through Free Patterns with Franken-Snoop

    Hi all, I haven't done much knitting for years. I think my last completed project was a floppy Brim hat back in 2010. It was a bit of a flop if I remember correctly... Nice shade of lavender though! Anyway, I joined the local Fibre Arts group back in April which has rekindled my interest in both knitting and crochet.  One thing that has surprised me is how much you can forget about both skills. So much of this year has been taken up relearning how to do both. It would appear that they are perishable skills. In my eagerness to knit and crochet as much as possible, I've been surfing the internet for patterns. Nice easy patterns to ease me gently back into the world of all things yarn related.  One of the first things I made was a Snoopy head. It was supposed to be a whole Snoopy... but I used the wrong size crochet hook. Say 'hi' to Franken-snoop!      I thought he came out kinda cute so I entered him in the local fair. He didn't win anything but he...

A soft spot or OSMC

Hi there,  I was having a bit of a nose around a local second hand shop over the weekend and came across this: It was tucked down the side of some furniture, looking a bit sorry for itself, just sitting there all alone. Well, I couldn't leave it there.  Poor thing looks like its had a bit of a hard life. It's a Mundlos machine, originally designed to go on a treadle table judging by the lack of a tool compartment, little holes in the base just under the hand crank and the small groove just behind the wheel. The little holes and groove would have been for the belt attaching the machine to the pedal.  The tools would probably have been kept in the table. The golden badge is the Mundlos company's trade mark and the portrait is of Heinrich Mundlos, one of the company's founders.  The little switch to the side is a handy little gadget that pops the shuttle out of the bobbin compartment. Originally, this machine would have been decorated with ...

The Charity Shop Find & the Headache from Hell!

 Hi all I've always been a fan of charity shops. Even before they became a fashionable way to reuse or  repurpose other people's unwanted clutter.  To me, they have always been a gateway for feeding my addiction to vintage and antique sewing machines.  Like this one.  Isn't she a beauty? According to the markings, She is a New Home machine made in West Germany so I'm guessing she's a post war... maybe 1950s... electric sewing machine.    She has a bolt-on motor and the shortest electric cable I have ever seen on a sewing machine! Look at it! It's tiny! That's never going to reach any of my electrical outlets. I'm thinking that this vintage sewing machine was made to be in a cabinet... or a previous owner cut the cable for some reason.  Maybe their outlets were mounted on a desk and they didn't want long cables cluttering the workspace?  Who knows? One thing I do know, is this sewing machine is going to give me a little bit of a headache!...